Tomato tarte tatin is a French brasserie summer classic heres how to recreate this savoury treat
When an idea is as good as tarte tatin, it would be nothing short of a culinary crime to confine it to apples – that may have been what the good sisters were cooking when Stéphanie Tatin made her happy mistake, if you believe that particular origin story, but buttery caramel and crisp pastry are a happy pairing with everything from homely plums to exotic pineapple rings, as well as more savoury fruits such as the tomato or pepper.
Indeed, a tomato tatin, a staple of French brasserie menus at this time of year (if you’re in Paris, do have one at Les Philosophes for me), is an excellent way to make the most of the slightly disappointing specimens it’s all too easy to come across even at the height of summer in Britain, although it also works with fruit that’s too ripe or too bruised to serve raw (to guests, at least). Clearly, because tomatoes are rather different to apples, and because this isn’t a dessert, it’s not sufficient simply to substitute one for the other in the original recipe. So how do you make the perfect tomato tatin?
The tomatoes
Although you can make a tomato tatin – or, indeed, any other kind of tart – with whatever fruit you happen to have lying around, from cherries to stripy green tiger tomatoes, I’m with food writer Sarah Beattie when she recommends using the “drier, meatier sort”, such as plums. The principal problem with many of the recipes I try is that tomatoes contain far more liquid than apples – they’re about 94% water, if Google is to be believed – much of which is released as the fruit cooks, leaving the pastry below sadly soggy once the tart has been upturned for serving.
Fortunately, plum tomatoes are somewhat less well-hydrated than the average, and more amenably shaped for this purpose than the similarly fleshy beef variety, but you’ll still benefit from removing the skins, to allow more water to evaporate, and the jellied seeds, then cooking the tomatoes briefly to release their juices, as suggested by Cara Mangini in her book The Vegetable Butcher.
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