High in the Andes, Bolivias de facto capital is having a moment, thanks to local artists, chefs and cafe owners on a mission to breathe new life into the historic centre
There are few cities with such an extraordinary setting as lofty La Paz. At 3,640 metres above sea level, Bolivia’s de facto capital has serious altitude. Fly in and you’ll see the pancake-flat Altiplano (high plain) fall into a steep-sided bowl lined with a maze of adobe and red-brick buildings, which mix with modern skyscrapers at the base. And towering above it all is the jagged, glacier-topped Cordillera Real.
That it lacks a long checklist of sights is part of its charm. It’s worth spending time in La Paz, not only acclimatising to the altitude but simply wandering. An amalgam of architectural styles, cultures and beliefs, it has everything from offerings to the goddess Pachamama to incense-filled colonial churches, food stalls to trendy cafes, bowler-hatted cholitas to hipsters among its theatrical street life. It’s frenetic, chaotic, often frustrating but never dull.
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